ON THE GARDEN PATH by Carolyn Herriot

Once the fall rains have started, it is the perfect time to feed the lawn. Use an organic fertilizer, one higher in phosphorus and potassium to stimulate root development. Warm, moist soil activates myriad soil microorganisms that break down natural source ingredients and slowly release them as nutrients. Avoid synthetic lawn fertilizers with high NPK ratios; they destroy the intricate web of soil life and cause fast cellular plant growth, resulting in weak tissues more prone to insect and disease attack.
About mid-fall, cut the grass really short. If there’s a build-up of thatch (undecayed grass, roots, etc.), dethatch the lawn. Aerate, leaving the core plugs to break down and feed the grass. Apply dolomite lime if required. Lawns on the wet West Coast, where heavy rains tend to acidify soil, usually need a yearly application. Wait two weeks after liming the lawn to fertilize.
Use a winter-wise organic lawn food high in phosphorus and potassium. Phosphorus (P) strengthens grass roots. Potassium (K) strengthens grass blades and promotes general good health. Top-dress with screened compost or a sandy garden loam. Overseed with an appropriate grass mixture and keep well watered until the seed has sprouted. Never let a new lawn dry out.
Grass needs warmth and time to germinate. Some grasses take three weeks or more. Ideally, seed in time for a good root system to develop before the first hard frost. Apply a mycorrhizal inoculant or spray with compost tea. Effective microorganisms reestablish a proper microbial balance in the soil; microbes do not regenerate on their own so they need to be reintroduced.
When spraying the lawn with compost tea or using a mycorrhizal inoculant, avoid chlorinated water, which destroys microbes. Tip: When cutting, use a mulch mower, which leaves grass clippings that will break down to feed soil microbes. High populations of microbes breaking down organic matter should prevent a buildup of thatch.
Plant a tree
When it starts raining again, it is also the perfect time to plant fruiting or ornamental trees. Make sure to choose an evergreen or deciduous tree that meets your needs. Fast-forward to its full maturity to ensure the tree will survive at the location of your choice. Check for overhead wires, perimeter drains, rooflines, shade, blocked views and anything that might cause the tree to be cut down in the future. If you have natural gas, check your gas main before digging.
Dig a hole four times wider and a little deeper than the root ball. If dry, soak the hole with water before planting. If it’s a ball-and-burlap tree, place it in the hole and soak the root ball. Remove the burlap carefully, taking care not to break the soil ball around the roots. Handle by lifting from the bottom of the root ball, not by the tree trunk. Position the tree straight up in the centre of the hole. Mix the soil from the hole with compost and mycorrhizal inoculant or aged manure and fill in around the roots. Make sure the root flare remains visible at the soil surface; do not bury it. Tamp down to remove airspaces, which encourage fungal diseases around roots. Attach the tree to strong stakes, one on each side. Pound them into the ground to prevent the tree from rocking back and forth during heavy winds. Use non-abrasive ties. Water-in well. Remember to remove stakes and ties after two years at the latest.

From A Year on the Garden Path: A 52-Week Organic Gardening Guide by Carolyn Herriot. $29.95, Earthfuture Publications, Victoria, BC. Available at Banyen Books, Duthie Books or at (www.earthfuture.com/gardenpath).

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